Tom Yum Goong

Peel off the loose outer layers of lemongrass and cut off and discard the dry green tops and the root end. With the back of your knife, hit the lemongrass until the stalk is bruised and splits open. Cut the bruised lemon grass into 1- to 2-inch sections.

If the oyster mushrooms are attached in a bunch, cut off the root end, then separate into individual mushrooms. Shell and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells; leave the heads on and trim any long feelers.

For the shrimp stock: In a medium sized pot, combine 2 quarts water, the lemongrass, lime leaves, galangal, fresh chiles and shrimp shells. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together the chile paste, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar in a small bowl; set aside.

When the stock is done, remove the shells and herbs with a slotted spoon. The herbs are tough and cannot be eaten, but return some of the herbs to the stock to visually represent the flavors.

Add the oyster mushrooms to the stock; cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook 1 minute more, until just done. Remove the soup from the heat. Add the chile paste mixture, stir and taste. The lead flavor should be sour, backed with salt and some sweetness. Adjust to taste with lime juice and salt. Garnish with cilantro, and serve with rice or rice noodles, if desired. (The rice noodle soup is a popular lunch dish in Thailand called guay tiew tom yum.